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canoeing, kayaking and other adventures

canoeing and kayaking adventures born in the Southeastern U.S. and now centered in Scotland...

Tuesday, April 26, 2005

Okefenokee submission to the TSRA newsletter

Destination Report: Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge
Part 1: The Ins and Outs of Arranging a Swamp Trip


The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service maintains and protects nearly 400,000 acres of the Okefenokee Swamp in Southeast Georgia as the Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge. The Okefenokee has a history of logging, mining and attempted development. After its designation as a NWR in 1937, private interests in adjacent lands have continued to threaten its existence. Under the refuge management, approximately 20% of the swamp is accessible for day trips and overnight wilderness trips. Canoe trails meander through portions of the northern half of the swamp. Terrain varies from cypress forest to open prairie.

March and April are peak months for the swamp because lots of pretty things begin to bloom, the alligators wake up from their winter siestas and the bugs may not be too aggressive (still, headnets and bug dope are on the recommended gear list). The rest of the year is no less exciting. Winter is a great time for birdwatchers, since the Okefenokee is a popular winter destination for many species including Sandhill Cranes and Great Egrets. In the early summer, the baby birds hatch and in the late summer, the baby alligators hatch. Fall brings out more wildflowers and the early birds begin to arrive before the next winter.

Day trips and overnight wilderness trips are available year-round, although low water levels may require that certain trails be closed. The Suwannee Canal, the result of a failed effort to drain the swamp, runs roughly east to west across the middle of the swamp. Most of the overnight trips spend a portion of their time on the Canal. There are seven overnight shelters or campsites in the refuge, so only seven wilderness trips will be out at any given time. Designated shelters and campsites with privies are available for use during both day trips and wilderness trips. Leave no trace ethics are required to minimize the impact on the swamp ecosystems. Grey water including dishwater goes into the privy not into the swamp. The swamp water cannot be filtered well enough, so water must be packed in for drinking and dishwashing.

Permits can be difficult to obtain, especially in March and April. Trips during those months are limited to 2 nights in the swamp. At other times of the year, trips can be as long as 4 nights. Day trips are permitted from any of the access points, but those trips are limited to certain trails. Motorized craft are permitted on most of the day tripping trails, so congestion could be an issue at times. For those truly looking for someone else to do the work, guided tours are available from Stephen C. Foster State Park and the Suwannee Canal Recreation Area.

For wilderness trip reservations, call (912)496-3331 between 7 and 10am ET on a non-holiday weekday up to two months before the planned departure. Especially during the spring, flexibility in launch date and persistence will improve the odds of obtaining a launch date. A special campsite is set aside for youth groups. For non-youth groups, wilderness permits are available for groups of up to 20 people, but given the size of the shelters, a group of 10 would be less cramped. Unguided daytrips do not require reservations, but parking fees are charged at many of the access points and groups are expected to sign out and sign in at the park office at these access points. The Okefenokee NWR has a no pets policy because pets look and smell a lot like food to an alligator.

From Nashville, travel time varies from 8-12 hours depending on what traffic allows. Much of the drive follows I-75 (aka, the Walt Disney Highway) so competing events such as spring and summer break may interfere with the drive. If you plan to take more than one day to make the drive, reserving a motel room or space at a private campground may be prudent. Georgia state parks close really early, as in gates locked at 7:30pm early.

Our trip to the Okefenokee will be detailed in Part 2, tentatively titled How a City Slicker Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Swamp, in next month’s Watershed.

Additional References
Website: http://www.fws.gov/okefenokee/
Guidebook: Paddling Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge by David O’Neill and Elizabeth A. Domingue

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